Sunday 9 November 2008

Snail farming in rural East Kent

Helix aspersa maxima

We are a small local food producer based in East Kent and members of Produced in Kent (www.producedinkent.co.uk). We have been farming edible snails on a small scale for two years but have just started to expand.

November began with the Tenterden and Cranbrook Food Festival which would have been a complete washout from the snail point of view if it hadn’t been for meeting Oliver Rowe, Urban Chef of TV fame. But I also met Zoe Meyer who runs a publishing consultancy (see: mailto:zoe@zoesbooks.co.uk) and advised me to start writing a blog so here I am.

We had Meridian filming here on Monday 3rd and the snails and I featured on the ITV south east local news that same evening. They also filmed at The Dog Inn, Wingham (www.thedoginn.co.uk/) where snails have been on the menu for more than a year now.

On Tuesday evening I went to the launch of Sue Pope’s book – Lighter than Air (see: http://www.susan-pope.co.uk/). It was quite an event and it was good to meet up with old friends from my writer’s group Medway Mermaids (www.medwaymermaids.btik.com).

On Wednesday I visited four pubs I have sold snails to in the past and had one of those all too familiar experiences. At the first pub it was good to talk to the sous chef but I have to go back next week to meet the head chef who seems to have changed since I was there three weeks ago. At the second pub I was assured they are interested in serving snails but not yet so I should go back at the beginning of December. At the third pub the owner was on holiday but the chef said they have a French evening planned next week so they might want snails. I need to go back next week when the owner is back. At the fourth pub where I had sold some snails a month ago I called in to find out how the chef had got on with cooking and serving them. But I found the place had completely changed hands – new owner, new chef and new bar staff so no one had any recollection of what had gone before. If they look in the freezer they might find a bag of snails. The new chef is not there on Wednesdays so I need to go back.


Roman snail: empty shells

Thursday was my first experience of meeting Roman snails. I found my way to the secret location along narrow winding streets past a Roman villa. Roman snails are protected now so it is illegal to collect them. Martin Willing the Conservation Officer of the Conchological Society (http://www.conchsoc.org/) was very helpful in providing information about them. The Romans are thought to be the first people to farm snails in 50 BC and when they invaded Britain they brought some with them. They are found now in isolated pockets mainly in association with sites of former Roman occupation. The snails themselves are almost white, both bodies and shells. At this site they seemed to be living under a canopy of trees where the ground was spongy with dead leaves over the chalky soil.

When I got home there was an email from a French farmer located near Boulogne inviting me to visit so that we can talk about the different way we raise and cook snails. I was delighted with the invitation and wondered how he had found me. Boulogne is just a day trip away on the ferry so I will definitely go.

The week ended by collecting some lovely little hand thrown pots from Aylesford Pottery. (www.aylesfordpottery.co.uk/). I asked them to make me some pots for serving snails as an alternative to presentation shells which have to be imported. So now I have ten sets of 6 pots and a dish for sale at £17.50 plus postage or they could be hired for events.